Walking the Camino de Santiago, Porto to Santiago, 8 days, 124kms, Elsa and Lindsay McMillan. 14th September, 2019
Day 1 Transfer from Porto to Tui to begin our walk.
We stayed at the Hotel Parador which was an old country estate house on the edge of town turned into a beautiful hotel. We walked to the Cathedral in the old town to have our Passports stamped so we could leave early in the morning. It was a very warm afternoon and although we took the river path, by the time we had climbed the hill on which the walled city was situated we were ready for a cool drink. As we sat outside a cafe right next to the Cathedral we began talking to a couple from Colorado who were also walking the trail. As we sat and sipped and chatted with Mike and Lizzie there were more and more pilgrims arriving having finished their day of walking.
I have to admit that at this point I began to feel apprehensive as to whether I could to this! We had walked 5kms in the hot sun today and we were really feeling it!
Dinner at the hotel was local and traditional, a good night sleep and at breakfast on day 2, the first serious day of walking we realized that there were other groups of pilgrims setting out today also. Somehow this felt reassuring.
Day 2 Tui to Porrino.
After a good breakfast and strong coffee we set out following the yellow arrows and the Shell signs that took us back to the Cathedral in the Old city and then out on the path to Porrino. Feeling excited and apprehensive I became overwhelmed and teary. As my eyes filled with tears I was able to share with Lindsay the overwhelming sense of gratitude for the chance to do this walk which I had hoped to do for some years. We shared about our joy on this day for the opportunity to follow in the footsteps of those who had gone before us. We also reflected on the events and people in our lives for whom we truly thankful. Thanks to this conversation the day started well and the early walking hours passed by through woods and paths, roads and fields. The cool morning was ideal to set a good pace as we had little idea of what to expect along the away and how long it would take us.
As we walked we enjoyed moments of awe at the scenery and greeting to fellow pilgrims. “Beau or Bon Camino” was the simple greeting as you passed by another Pilgrim or group.
We did 2 hours of walking before we stopped for a snack and water. At this point and pace we knew that we would be ok and arrive at our destination by the appointed time (3pm)
As the day warmed up we put on our hat and pushed on at a gentle but steady pace to reach Porrino 2 hours ahead of time! Obviously Linds was setting the pace! It had been a great day. We had some lunch and then enjoyed this lovely old town. Stamped our Pilgrim passports and enjoyed a coffee and a Portuguese tart! Our confidence was now very high and we were excited about the days to come.
Day3 Porrino to Arcade. 24kms, 30 degrees and very hilly!!!!!
Today we set out from Porrino at 9.30am full of enthusiasm and energy. It was a beautiful morning 19 degrees and feeling fresh and enthusiastic for the hilly and long day ahead.
We began the day chatting about what has been going through our minds as we walked and realized what a great opportunity we had to direct our hours of thoughts to something worthwhile. So we talked about all our friends and family who have health issues and began thinking and praying for them. As the day rolled on we found our thoughts drifting to more friends who are in need of support and love. Life is wonderful but fragile.
Very soon we were heading up and up and up! We soon learned that coming down was less challenging on the heart rate but hard on the knees and legs. A few of these and we thought we had completed the hills but we had mastered only the first of many.
Up and down we went as the day got hotter and hotter, 30 C. The best parts of the day were in the shady woods, but most of this day was on Tarmac roads. At last we walked into a wooded area and there was a girl playing the bagpipes and chatting to walkers. What a treat this was on such a challenging day. Up and down we continued but the terrain did not deter us from the stunning views of the countryside. At lunch we found an oasis on the track serving salad, bread, water and wonderful shots or double shots of coffee. Not to mention the very nice bathrooms. As we set out after lunch we had our cold wet neck scarves on to cool us down and wipe the heat away. (Thanks Shirley Williams )
As we walked on through the woods it was a good time to reflect on the prayers of the day, sickies and health challenged friends. We prayed for healing, miracles, health issues and cures for autoimmune diseases.
On reaching Arcade after 7 hours walking we collapsed into a cool bath, washed our hot sweaty clothes and lay on the bed to recover.
We are now in the bar with a G&T and sipping until the Spanish hour for dinner. 8pm!
Hot and exhausted as we were, we acknowledged that many of life’s challenges are not as easy to overcome. Resolved to pray more and complain less.
Day 4 Grace and Wisdom.
We set out with much enthusiasm from Arcade after a good night sleep, despite being in a double bed! Have not done that in a while, and very ordinary pillows! Our aches and pains were rested, we’d eaten a good breakfast and we were ready to go. The hills the day before had given us a blister each but the trusty blister packs we brought with us did the trick. A good hearty breakfast, 2 expressos and we were ready to go. It was a cool still morning as we walked through the ancient city, across the old bridges and up the hills surrounded by olives, figs, apples, oranges and pomegranates by the road side. Up and up we went then a few downs. The best lesson we learnt today was to zigzag down the hills. Helpful on the blister and much softer on the knees
Our walk was only 14 kms today but through hills and valleys, farms and along the creek through the woods. There were no villages on this morning’s route so coffee was 3 hours away. A shorter walk at a leisurely pace was much enjoyed today and coffee was a welcome gift.
On arrival in Pontevedra about 12 noon, our accommodation in the old town was a delightful treat. Our bags were waiting for us and so were the room, shower, air conditioning and fresh blister band aids.
We chatted today about Wisdom. Are we wise? Who is wise? How do we know this? It is good to spend time with wise people because it helps us to grow and learn more about ourselves.
Do we know when we are in the company of a wise person? Is it that we like what a person says, wise or not? I need more conversation and “wisdom” around these thoughts.
After checking in we wandered and sat in a beautiful cafe near the massive San Francisco Convent and were served delicious salads and coffee. The heat of the day also required an ice cream.
We were now starting to come along the track with people we had encountered on others days and some we had shared accommodation venues with and therefore had eaten our dinner or breakfast together. It was fun to share stories, lives and interests with fellow pilgrims from all over the world.
Question we ask ourselves today is.........
How do we find people who are wise?
Day5. Pontevedra to Calais de Reis
“Grace is unmerited Love”
Breakfast at 7.30 am was delicious as always and we packed a cheese and tomato roll for a snack along the way. We need good food to top up our energy levels along the way. After 3 days of walking already achieved we had produced some skills in planning for the day. Not all paths had food and water available at the time along the path that we might be hungry!
We set off at 8.30am at a good pace. If we walked faster in the mornings when we were fresh, fueled up and the air was cool. We found that when it got hot after lunch and we were tired we could slow down a little!
The river path out of town reminded us of The Tan in Melbourne which we know well. Today we walked on paths, roads and footpaths up a little and down some but mostly but mostly through farming land of corn, fruit trees and grapes. There were many new homes in this area today and many being built. A good sign I would say for the area. The walk today was well supported by stops to replenish water, coffee and very nice Loo’s.
We are still meeting new pilgrims along the path and we also met up with many whom we have been travelling along with most days.
It was a good day, 24 kilometers of walking through lovely countryside and catching up with fellow pilgrims. 6 hours and we were there in the lovely small city of Calais de Reis. Another renovated, gorgeous hotel in an attic room was awaiting us. On arriving at our hotel were ready for a shower rest, relax and then a wander in the town.
“Grace” was to be our topic of conversation and thoughts and prayer today but I just need to chill out and let the mind wander. I ended the day with thoughts of gratitude for my good fortune of being married to a gentleman, a scholar, a provider, a peacemaker, thoughtful, kind, shy, (introvert) sometimes, fun and adventurous. I am blessed. Sleep well my lovely’s.
Day 6. Callas de Reis to Padron. 19 kms, 4-5 hours
After another great night sleep in our trendy attic room, I think I have found the formula for a great night sleep.” Walk a long way at a good speed and enjoy the journey.” If only! We were up this morning at 6.30 am packed and eating a delicious breakfast with all the other pilgrims. In our bag today we packed a cheese and ham sandwich a banana, peach and plenty of water for the journey. As we set out it was really cool and misty as we headed up over the mountain we could only just see in the mist. Beautiful weather for walking. Setting a steady pace as we did in the mornings we really enjoyed the track. We prefer going up as opposed to going downhill.
I have adopted the zigzag walk successfully for going downhill. It took about 3 hours going up and down over the mountain. At the top of one small hill I stopped to admire some Wisteria which was in flower and the Bella Donna lilies. The older lady who was picking a few bunches of grapes from her vines close by greeted us and came over broke the branch of Wisteria off and gave it to me with the Bom Camino greeting. Good Camino! During the day we came up to an American lady walking by herself. She was wearing a tee shirt with a photo of a young man printed on the front. We greeted each other and walked together for a while. Linds asked if he could tell us who the young man was on her tee shirt. Her eyes filled with tears, she was embarrassed and all she could say through her tears “my big boy Lucas” A tragedy in her life we suspect.
We followed the arrows and shell signs all day until we came down to the river at Padron. Another beautiful ancient city surrounded by the new, working so well together. We walked in through the huge fresh fruit, vegetable, meat and fish market which had been working all day. We walked on through Padron and on the outskirts of Padron found our lovely renovated Railways hotel built right on the station siding. 2 big diesel trains an hour started rumbling through the station, stopped, loaded and unloaded passengers then gave a toot and rumbled on. Could be a restless night we thought! Fortunately the trains did not run through the night.
The grieving lady we met today along the way has caused me to think about and pray for those I know who are grieving lost loved ones, for Those who are caring for chronically ill or aged loved ones and or healing and cures for illnesses and auto immune diseases.
So now we relax, refresh and sleep ready to be up at 6.30 am for our last day of walking the Camino de Santiago on the Portuguese route. Our day is expected to be 26kms, 6-7 hours walk and Grade 4!!
Day7. Padron to Santiago de Compostella
Not such a great night sleep as the bed was hard but grateful to have a comfortable room and a bed to sleep in. 6.30 am up has become the new norm. (Not usually my time of day) Up, dressed and packed before breakfast. Lindsay has the packing down to a fine art! All our walking friends were there at breakfast which was more traditional than usual, cheese meat and bread! Coffee was good and we were off. Knowing we had a long day of walking to come we packed a cheese roll, water and fruit for an energy snack on the way.
We stepped out into the cool, darkest morning yet in a heavy mist. No need for a jacket though as our walking speed kept us warm. The Way was quite busy this morning as several paths had come together for this last day into Santiago. It was a lovely time to be up and on the path as we knew that by 12 it would be sunny and hot.
As we walked along the track through and around the old city the roosters were crowing and the light was dawning. Our final day had arrived and we were ready for it. We had a sense of anticipation for this last day of 26 kms and the challenges it might bring as well as a sense of achievement and satisfaction.
As we followed the shells and arrows many pilgrims joined us. Some pilgrims we had seen before and some from the coastal road whom we had not met until now. One group of young people was singing as they walk. Gorgeous!
The path wound its way this morning thru villages, along roads and woodland paths. Some ups and some downs, pines, eucalypts and oak trees mainly. We walked the woods on the footy but soft bed of the fallen leaves and pine needles.
We enjoyed good coffee along the way and our picnic of ham and cheese rolls, muesli bar and water was just the thing.
Our thoughts today were stimulated by a friend back home that was challenged to consider, “What fills my cup?” We chatted about this thought for quite a while, sharing thoughts and it made us think deeply of the highs and lows of life and how we react and recover. We were distracted though of the anticipation of reaching Santiago and our walk coming to an end. Despite this distraction I love the question and will get to it for myself very soon.
The Way was so pretty today. We passed through many old villages and towns with lush veggie gardens, vines, sheep, roosters, chooks and cats and dogs. Many old homes had been renovated and new homes built to compliment the countryside.
Finally after 6 hours of walking we reached the outskirts of Santiago. Our day was not done as there was no sign of a Cathedral on the horizon and we could only imagine that the Cathedral would be on the highest point of the city. Finally after much walking uphill and directions in Spanish from locals pointing up the hill, keep going we saw the end!
There it was, huge, magnificent and way, way, way much bigger than I imagined.
We knew in advance that we would not be able to go inside as there is a renovation happening, but that did not deter a soul. There were people all over the massive square rejoicing, singing, taking photos of each other. a sense of achievement and completion of a dream.
It was great to watch and enjoy and feel a part of the sense of achievement of completing a task of riding or walking, painful, persistent, mentally and physically challenging some days. None of these things have hurt me or taken away anything from me. The pilgrimage did challenge me. It made me more conscious of the challenges the early pilgrims faced and opened my eyes, heart and mind to the challenges many face on a daily bases. Can I live my life from here on in a more realistic, loving, generous and faithful way? I hope so.
Elsa 2019
Overnight in Santiago was a treat. We wondered amongst the locals and the pilgrims from all over the world. We ate tapas and local delicacies and enjoyed the company of the joyful people this night.
We were pleased with what we had achieved and slept soundly in the knowledge of it.
Day 8. Pack up and off to Madrid for our first leg on the way home.
